The grief of Mary and Martha before Christ at Bethany (Robert Bayne, 1860s)

The grief of Mary and Martha before Christ at Bethany (Robert Bayne, 1860s)

The grief of Mary and Martha before Christ at Bethany (Robert Bayne, 1860s)

St Mary, Eynesbury, St Neots, Cambridgeshire

And so to the previous parish church in Cambridgeshire. It could be said that it has taken me for a longer time to full this county than any other, since I was initially taken into a Cambridgeshire church to be baptised fifty-seven a long time in the past at the age of two months. Be that as it may well, I started out checking out the Cambridgeshire churches in earnest about four yrs in the past, partly as a consequence of an enthusiasm for relatives heritage. A lot more than 30 Cambridgeshire parishes and their churches had been houses to my ancestors of the final four generations. Right here, they ended up baptised, married and despatched on their remaining journey to the grave.

Cambridgeshire is a curious county. A satisfying parallelogram in form, stretching some forty miles from corner to corner, it has only existed in its existing kind given that 1974, when it was developed by the union of the two brief-lived counties of Huntingdon & Peterborough and Cambridgeshire & the Isle of Ely. These experienced been made in their switch in 1965 out of four scaled-down counties, these currently being Huntingdonshire, the Soke of Peterborough, Cambridgeshire and the Isle of Ely. The Isle was returning to its position of in advance of the 1890s, when it experienced been hived off from Cambridgeshire for administrative applications. Before the 1890s, the Soke of Peterborough experienced been a portion of Northamptonshire. Still with me? Very good. The 1974 iteration of the county took in a one parish each individual from Bedfordshire and Essex, and then in the 1990s lost a single parish to Suffolk.

It all sounds a little bit of a hotchpotch, and nevertheless it looks to work. Of all the amalgamated counties created in 1974, Cambridgeshire is the only just one which has survived by general public will. Avon and Humberside have been consigned to background, Leicestershire broken up once again into its constituent parts. But in Cambridgeshire, the former county of Huntingdonshire has been allowed to survive as a neighborhood federal government district, as has the Soke of Peterborough which continues in expanded sort as the Peterborough unitary authority.

The cities of Cambridge and Peterborough have both of those expanded spectacularly due to the fact 1965, and the county is the only non-metropolitan region to have an elected mayor directing thousands and thousands of pounds to growth projects. The inhabitants of about a million is split far more or significantly less 50 percent-and-50 % among urban and rural options. The west and south of the county are incredibly prosperous, but the Fenland district in the north-east has deep pockets of poverty, as do the metropolitan areas of Cambridge and Peterborough.

I expended the initially twenty a long time of my existence in Cambridgeshire, most of it in Cambridge, and it is continue to really hard not to think of it as property. And so this has presented a distinctive resonance to my journeys all-around the county. Cambridgeshire’s church buildings are not spectacular. In fact, it is tough to determine a unique Cambridgeshire fashion at all, other than a liking for octagonal tower tops, and they are not so quite plentiful. But Cambridgeshire shares borders with more other counties than any other English county, and the churches in close proximity to people borders are inclined to take on the qualities of the other county – massive, marshland churches up around Norfolk and Lincolnshire, tiny, homely church buildings down in the direction of Hertfordshire and Essex, grand Perpendicular church buildings by the Suffolk border, while west of Huntingdon the spired church buildings merge seamlessly into their Northamptonshire counterparts. Strikingly, Cambridgeshire’s extremely best churches are quite much all near a border with one more county.

Of program, the county has two main medieval cathedrals at Peterborough and Ely, as properly as a assortment of faculty chapels in Cambridge, some of which are medieval in origin, which include the amazing chapel of King’s College or university, as superior as a cathedral. I have provided these on my journey, so by the time John and I acquired to the St Neots suburb of Eynesbury at a quarter to 4 on a late autumn afternoon I had by now frequented 314 Cambridgeshire church buildings. St Mary at Eynesbury would be the last parish church.

We hadn’t meant to be so late. We might arrived in St Neots at about two o’clock, prepared to stop by the 3 city centre churches, all of which in advance of 1965 served separate cities. If Cambridgeshire is an odd amalgam, then St Neots is odder even now. Five cities and villages merge into just about every other in the south-west corner of the county to kind St Neots, which, with far more than 40,000 men and women, can assert to be ‘the greatest town in Cambridgeshire’ (Cambridge and Peterborough equally remaining metropolitan areas of course). The parishes of St Neots city and Eynesbury kind the city centre, with the parish of Eaton Socon on the reverse lender of the Excellent Ouse, and Eaton Ford, which types a aspect of the parish, to the north of it. Little Paxton, the poshest parish, keeps itself somewhat at arms size, but again only by the width of a river. The Bedfordshire border runs along two sides of the city, and certainly, right up until 1965 areas of the city have been in Bedfordshire.

All a few medieval churches in St Neots city centre are significant, and all a few are devoted to St Mary, which can be the cause of some confusion. St Mary at St Neots and St Mary at Eynesbury are just a pair of hundred yards apart, divided by a tiny bridge, whilst St Mary at Eaton Socon sits half a mile or so to the south-west of them. The Eaton Socon church is heartily Evangelical in character, but the Eynesbury and St Neots town churches are both in the Anglo-Catholic custom, and I am difficult put to consider of two other these Substantial church buildings so close together, particularly in a little city, and taking into consideration that they are in different benefices.

We had uncovered the Eaton Socon church locked. The signal appeared to suggest that if you tipped up in the morning on a weekday you may possibly obtain the adjacent workplace open up, and presumably they just could possibly allow you into the church, however as spectacular as the Perpendicular exterior is there would not be considerably to see, as the church was gutted by fireplace in 1930. The only aged point still left is the font. Continue to, this was our thirteenth church of the working day, and the to start with just one we experienced located locked, so we weren’t too dissatisfied.

We headed off and parked in close proximity to the Eynesbury church. This was also locked, but there was a keyholder recognize, so I rang him up. He appeared a minimal stunned, but advised us he’d be coming down in about an hour’s time, would that do? I claimed it would. We walked the limited distance up to the St Neots city church, which was open of class, as it is each individual day. Another major, stunning Perpendicular church, but not more than enough inside of it to fill an hour, so we drove out to Excellent Paxton and its late Saxon church, which John experienced not visited right before, and then again into city to continue to keep our appointment.

Eynesbury church is significant, although in contrast to its two sisters it is mostly Early English in origin, with earlier arcades and later aisles. The tower was significantly rebuilt in the 17th Century, and appears to be like it. The tower is most uncommon in that it is established versus the most easterly bay of the south aisle of the nave. The nave extends westwards to the road line, which is also in opposition to the north aspect, and so this explains the tower’s place. Of the 3 church buildings, this is the most urban in visual appearance, and would not appear out of location in the centre of Cambridge.

The Early English inside is at very first rather dim, for as at St Neots, this church was virtually totally glazed in the 19th Century with colored glass, a lot of it by Hardman & Co. But, though the nave is practically as large as at the other church, it does not come to feel like a barn. Fairly, the decreased roof and the dusty furnishings give a perception of litter, nevertheless not in a poor way. This is a tough and all set church which has shaped itself to the wants and needs of its parishioners about the generations. Arthur Blomfield led the 19th Century restoration, and his acquainted ambiance lies closely listed here. The view east is to the wonderful rood, the 1933 operate of Albert Richardson who had just concluded restoring Eaton Socon.

I was pleased to find out that what I had taken for reticence in our host turned out to be a cheerful dryness. He was pretty welcoming, answered our issues, but remaining us just to wander around as he pottered about. I asked him about the Anglo-catholic custom of the two churches. He did not seem to feel it was uncommon to discover two urban churches in the Anglo-Catholic tradition so near together, which I uncovered strangely reassuring. “We like to believe we are just that small little bit larger than that great deal up the street,” he noticed. I asked him how to pronounce Eynesbury (I have constantly rhymed the initially syllable with strains). “Well, we connect with it Ains-bury,” he stated, “even though I you should not know if that is appropriate.”

Nevertheless we wandered. The 17th Century pulpit was declared unusually stunning by Pevsner’s revising editor, and he is suitable, the result partly the outcome of its resetting on an stylish stem in the 1970s. Other woodwork includes the greatest medieval bench ends we had noticed all day, carved with animals together with pigs, bulls and a camel. Some of them surface to have been tailored and added to relatively crudely, possibly in the 17th Century. Could this have been an endeavor to maintenance the results of iconoclasm? If so, it would be exciting to know what was there just before.

In the center of the nave is a modern-day memorial slab to an Eynesbury parishioner who died two hundred a long time in the past. James Toller was just 20 a single a long time aged. What tends to make him extraordinary is that he was just one of the tallest folks who have ever lived. In close proximity to this position lies all that is mortal of James Toller (The Eynesbury Big) who died 4th February 1818 aged 21 yrs, 8 ft 1½ inches in height. James Toller was born in the highway beside the church in 1797. Tall from an early age, in his teens he was exhibited in London and introduced to the Russian Tsar. He was toured all over Europe with a Dutchman named Simon Paap who was only 20 eight inches tall.

The excellent people of Eynesbury appear to have dealt with James cheerfully as a single of their very own, but his widespread fame inevitably built it difficult for him to live a usual lifetime, and, as his health and fitness deteriorated, he spent his last years powering the large walls of the rectory back garden. He was buried inside of the church for, it was claimed, a bounty of £20 had been issued for his corpse by dissectionists. In his life time a height of eight foot six was claimed for James, but a measurement of his skeleton when it was reburied following the 19th Century restoration of the inside gave a more true measurement, which was nevertheless remarkable.

And so, that was it, the previous parish church in Cambridgeshire, a suitably quirky position for a quirky county. There are nevertheless a good deal of non-conformist chapels to go to, as effectively as the chapels of cemeteries, faculties and other establishments of system. But for now, the satisfaction of a job finished accompanied me as we headed again to Ely station.

Posted by Simon Knott on 2018-11-11 08:36:36

Tagged: , Eynesbury , St Neots , Cambridgeshire , Cambs , Huntingdonshire , Hunts , church , East Anglia

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