St Margaret’s church in Cley-next-the-Sea, Norfolk is a testament to the collision of East Anglia’s industrial heartland and the devout Catholicism of medieval England. Built by the merchant de Vaux family in the early 14th century, the church is replete with all the elements one might expect from a medieval East Anglian church, but its size and elaborateness are particularly remarkable. The church was built during a time of great wealth and prosperity for the Blakeney Haven ports, which were major centers of trade in East Anglia. However, the Black Death swept across England in the mid-14th century, killing many including the master mason responsible for the church’s construction, William Ramsey. The disruption caused by the plague put an end to the church’s development for several generations.
The church was further developed in the 15th and 16th centuries, with the addition of a mighty Perpendicular south porch, a rood screen, elaborately carved woodwork, and glass. However, the English Reformation brought an abrupt end to the church’s development as there was no longer a need for bequests. The church continued to exist as a place of worship, but it was no longer developed in the same way. The Reformation also had a broader impact on Norfolk, contributing to the region’s transformation into a long, agricultural sleep as patterns of trade changed and the need for Blakeney Haven diminished.
St Margaret’s church today is a beautiful example of English architecture, with tracery on the windows that is a testament to the development of English architecture over the centuries. The south transept in particular is remarkable, with elegant lights building to a cluster of vast quatrefoils that were completed on the eve of the Black Death. Inside the church, the nave is a feast for the senses, with a grandeur that is uncommon in East Anglian churches. The honeyed stone emits a creamy dampness that recalls former business, and the building demands a certain amount of awe. Today, weddings have become important to the Church of England not just in terms of income, but as a last bastion of the grounding of Faith in ordinary people’s lives.
Posted by Simon Knott on 2022-03-30 11:18:53